Straight braid or leader for lucky crafts/jerkbaits

[Aloha_Cowboy]

I'm using a Phenix trifecta light 10' for throwing jerkbaits in the surf, reel is loaded up with 30lb braid and I usually use 12-20lb leader, enough to have my finger on that instead of braid when casting. I keep having a problem with break offs near my knot though. My knot doesn't fail, rather my leader snaps just past the knot. I feel the guides on the rod are tiny, even when I had someone else tie up a solid FG knot for me I could feel it bump the guides pretty hard when casting. Would it be a good idea to just fish straight braid on these lures, or a super short shock leader where the knot doesn't pass through the guides? Do I need to just start re-tying my line to leader knot every 10-15 casts? I haven't had this problem with swimbaits or Carolina rigs on my other rod. I just can't seem to find a knot that passes through these guides without eventually losing $20 lures on what feels like to consistent of a basis.

[cajunjacket]

I use straight mono on my surf rods. The added sensitivity of braid is great, but the superior abrasion resistance and simplicity of mono is preferred for me b/c the beaches I fish have lots of rocks, reef, and jetties. If I was fishing on a beach that had no rocks/reefs and just pure sand-bottoms, then maybe I'd go with braid ... but probably not. I like simplicity.

Specifically, I use either Trilene Big Game green line or Zebco OmniFlex (clear .. unfortunately, they don't make a colored variety). You can get 700 yds of 12 lb test OmniFlex for $2.42. Works just as well as the Trilene, but no green tint, and I like the green for making it slightly easier to see my line when tying knots.

When using straight mono, you can directly tie on the lure. Or you can use a tactical angler clamp to make it easy to snap on various jerkbaits and spoons.

For c-rig fishing, I have several leaders pre-tied in mini zip lock baggies with the barrel swivel on one end and the hook on the other. I use fluorcarbon to tie those b/c my wife bought me a spool of fluoro one year for my birthday, and it works just fine.

The main arguments I've seen for using braid are: added sensitivity, less line memory, and longer lasting (i.e. you don't have to respool as frequently). I've never had line memory issues with mono, and I have no problem respooling my line twice a year. I agree that braid is more sensitive. I'll also admit that one out of every 15 or so fish that I reel in on days with high surf are fish that I didn't even feel bite. Usually they're small perch. So maybe the braid would let you hook those earlier. For bigger fish, though, it's rare that I'm wishing I had more sensitivity and that the reason I lost the fish is due to poor line sensitivity. I might be wrong, though. Who knows...

[Perch killer]

Agree !

[camobass]

Mono for the win. You can always fish a true fluoro leader a couple feet on top if you wish. But avoid casting knots through the guides unless it’s absolute must which it isn’t really unless you’re offshore striped Marlin fishing.
Nice thing about mono, you can strip off half spool or slightly more and top off with new every trip and not break the bank. Or have a braid backing but that can cause spool corrosion over time. Nothing beats fresh mono, it’s like putting on a brand new pair of socks.

[Midnightpass]

I'm in the mono camp as well.. I just came back from Cabo and used braid for the reasons mentioned above... I have never had so much line problems in my life... Fraying line, wind knots, and break-offs of expensive lures... If I go back, it will be with mono... And I almost always use mono here...
Butch

[Mike M]

I use straight 8lb mono for croaker and corbina. On the rare occasions I fish for halibut, I use a very short fluorocarbon leader to a clip. The knot is outside the guides when I cast. The clip is small enough to wind through the guides (Celilo 9'6"ML) and back onto my reel for storage. I use a crazy Alberto to join the 15lb fluorocarbon leader to 30lb braid.

As an easy and quick precaution, check to see if any of your guides are chipped, or cracked.

[Aloha_Cowboy]

I use straight mono on my surf rods. The added sensitivity of braid is great, but the superior abrasion resistance and simplicity of mono is preferred for me b/c the beaches I fish have lots of rocks, reef, and jetties. If I was fishing on a beach that had no rocks/reefs and just pure sand-bottoms, then maybe I'd go with braid ... but probably not. I like simplicity.

Specifically, I use either Trilene Big Game green line or Zebco OmniFlex (clear .. unfortunately, they don't make a colored variety). You can get 700 yds of 12 lb test OmniFlex for $2.42. Works just as well as the Trilene, but no green tint, and I like the green for making it slightly easier to see my line when tying knots.

When using straight mono, you can directly tie on the lure. Or you can use a tactical angler clamp to make it easy to snap on various jerkbaits and spoons.

For c-rig fishing, I have several leaders pre-tied in mini zip lock baggies with the barrel swivel on one end and the hook on the other. I use fluorcarbon to tie those b/c my wife bought me a spool of fluoro one year for my birthday, and it works just fine.

The main arguments I've seen for using braid are: added sensitivity, less line memory, and longer lasting (i.e. you don't have to respool as frequently). I've never had line memory issues with mono, and I have no problem respooling my line twice a year. I agree that braid is more sensitive. I'll also admit that one out of every 15 or so fish that I reel in on days with high surf are fish that I didn't even feel bite. Usually they're small perch. So maybe the braid would let you hook those earlier. For bigger fish, though, it's rare that I'm wishing I had more sensitivity and that the reason I lost the fish is due to poor line sensitivity. I might be wrong, though. Who knows...

sorry its taken me so long to respond, my phone doesnt work well with sdfish and my computer has been out of commission for awhile. I started using braid with a mono/fluroo top shop because thats everything i could find on the internet told me to do. "Mono/flurouo will limit casting distance" etc. i didnt grow up fishing here, ive been a surfer my whole life, primarily. ive avoided mono because of the claims on how much it limits casting distance. but at this point, for my applications, that seems irrelevant, especially for how far lucky craft baits cast in the first place. im going to try using lower test straight mono, it definitely cant hurt my experiences out on the water.

[Aloha_Cowboy]

Agree !

im going to try straight mono, or at least a longer leader till i need to respool. the braid to mono has just not been working

[Aloha_Cowboy]

I use straight 8lb mono for croaker and corbina. On the rare occasions I fish for halibut, I use a very short fluorocarbon leader to a clip. The knot is outside the guides when I cast. The clip is small enough to wind through the guides (Celilo 9'6"ML) and back onto my reel for storage. I use a crazy Alberto to join the 15lb fluorocarbon leader to 30lb braid.

As an easy and quick precaution, check to see if any of your guides are chipped, or cracked.

i learned to fish on my own here and never had any guidance. i was told that the standard setup was braid to fluoro, or mono, and that anything else was inadequate and/or would scare fish. i checked the guides on the rod and they"re fine, so its most likely a problem with my tying. that or the alberto knot is just too big for the guides on the trifecta lite. i cant figure any other reason the line would be snapping ahead of the knot instead of at the knot.

[Aloha_Cowboy]

i just wanted to say to everyone who replied to me that im so sorry it took so long for me to say anything back. ya'll have been so helpful and friendly at any and every point in time whenever ive asked questions. thank you for you help, guidance, and kindness

[Gotfish?]

FG knot to a short (2-3') mono or fluorocarbon leader is my preference. The leader is short enough that it doesn't have to pass thru the guides when casting and the FG knot passes smoothly thru the tip if you reel it up too much. But if you don't need the casting distance or sensitivity of braid, stick with straight mono.

[YNW_FISHY]

I wouldn't toss an LC if you paid me and gave me the lure for free

[Mike M]

I wouldn't toss an LC if you paid me and gave me the lure for free

Wow... did something bad happen?

[Captain Willard]

I wouldn't toss an LC if you paid me and gave me the lure for free

Wow... did something bad happen?Capture.JPG

YNW_FISHY constantly posts misleading information because he's a CLOWN with no life that cannot keep his mouth shut.

[Mike M]

I wouldn't toss an LC if you paid me and gave me the lure for free

Wow... did something bad happen?Capture.JPG

YNW_FISHY constantly posts misleading information because he's a CLOWN with no life that cannot keep his mouth shut.

It was not my intention to start any drama. I just wondered if something bad happened like maybe 1 of the 9 sharp LC hooks got him.

[cajunjacket]

I've never been a fan of tossing LCs. I've spend at least 40 hours tossing it and reeling it back in. It wasn't fun. It doesn't catch as many fish as other lures, either. If I'm tossing a lure, I'm going with a t-rigged swimbait or a jighead with a swimbait. They produce the same quality fish as an LC, and they can be fished in much harsher conditions.

LCs require clear water that isn't too rough to be pitched. In my area (north county SD), that's a minority of days. And on those days, you'll still get more bites on a swimbait. I just think LC is a chance for people to throw a hard bait if they're tired of throwing swimbaits and c-rigs/hi-lows/etc.

[camobass]

There’s a lot of alternatives to LC. - cheaper and more expensive. LC work 100% but so do others. LC is a very well made lure though. There was another lure from Japan that I absolutely loved but it’s impossible to find. (Haven’t looked recently) the model was surf driver by “duo” I think??? In blue top pink bottom and silver side, that thing worked and would get crushed. Any “jerk bait” lure that has a weight transfer system works great.

Again 100% mono for the win. You’re eventually asking for trouble with yardage of braid in the water at some point in your journey. It seems people just get into the trend and the line companies do to. Braid was made to get yardage on reels when big game is spooling you off shore also so you didn’t have to fish a huge 80w or 130w bulky reel. It’s also preferable for deep water iron drop. Deep drop swordfish etc. It really has no business in the light tackle department. It’s just trendy. It also isn’t a “magic” line that lasts forever.

[MistrRocko]

So, surf fishing or not, having your leader break consistently in one spot is always a bad knot or an issue with your guides. There shouldn't be any problem with the knot going through the guides on a quality rod like you have otherwise. Braid to leader is an objectively better way to fish than straight mono or fluoro when it comes to casting out a stick bait and winding it in in the surf but that doesn't mean you won't do well with straight mono or fluoro. And if you aren't comfortable with your knots or just don't want to deal with it then it certainly isn't necessary.

As far as LC vs the competition...anything with a weight transfer is great as camobass mentioned. LC got super popular here forever ago in a time when people were used to Rapalas and other stuff without weight transfer systems, so the majority of stick baits felt like casting spit against the wind. Nowadays LC has a ton of competition and it'll all work great. Just make sure your hooks and split rings are ready for the job.