
There was a 1st time surfing class from Long Beach State on long boards, that was entertaining to watch.. This one girl caught a larger wave, the nose of the board dug into the wave and catapulted her face first into the front of the board.. I saw her come up and helped ashore by her buddy.. I went over to see if she was ok.. She had a fat and bloody lip and scratch’s on her face, and she told me her back was pretty sore… But I think she was ok.. I told her that I hope someone got that on film, as that was a pretty spectacular wipeout……. She was kinda upset as this was the 1st day of the class, and she might be too sore to continue… Hope she makes it back to her class..
An interesting day all around..
Butch