Drain Plug replacement

[bbpickleball]

Hi guys I have a 1989 nitro tracker. I have never been able to get the plug in all the way because it’s corroded and I haven’t had problems until yesterday. It popped out while on the water and almost sunk the boat. Needless to say I need to replace it. Here are some photos. I can’t find any good videos online. Should I drill out the old one and replace myself or have someone do it for me ? Any tips suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[camobass]

I would first dry to use a dremel or similar style tool and knock the irregularities out. You could even match a drill bit (3/4 or 7/8, measure it)and very carefully and very slowly drill the crud out that prevents the plug going all the way in. Looks like through hull isn’t compromised as far as the thickness, just corroded in the rear.
That’s what I would try first.

If you do replace the through hull by completely drilling out, replacing with say a bronze bolt on threaded drain plug housing(commonly available and used a lot on glass boats like Parker etc) the proper way to do it is;
Drill the hole, then gouge out about 1/4” of the foam or wood(not familiar with the construction core of that boat(doubt there is wood)) and fill with resin mixed with a milled fiber. Easy way to gouge is to insert an Allen wrench in the end of a drill. That way, you don’t have any water issues down the roadie delamination.
If that part of the hull is solid fiber glass,you don’t need to do the coring/gouging and simply mount the new drain fitting. Use 5200 or boatlife below the waterline caulk.

[Redeye]

I would assess a replacement, as a cheap fix could compromise the transom and be a safety risk. Almost looks like it use to be something else like a plastic threaded bore that has crumbled and someone stuck a plug in for a cheap fix. Remove and replace...

[camobass]

It definitely could be the remainder of the coarse threaded drain plugs that tracker used. If that is plastic, I definitely would replace. If it’s metal, drill would be fine.
None of those above are cheap fixes by the way. I’ve drilled plenty of holes through 6 million dollar sport fishers haha. Obviously the second one is the preferred but nothing wrong with the first try.

[camobass]

I’d replace it with this if you have to do a replacement. Seachoice. There isn’t much room under the above through hull for the bronze one

Again, use 5200 or boatlife below waterline caulk

[Stringbean]

Just to let you know, your drain plug is adjustable, screwing it in making it thicker , backing it out thinner. The screw compresses the rubber.
Hope it works

[crawdadguy]

I like the first camo bass thread on how to fix the issue...that being said I have an old bassboat ranger and I have the same issue with the drain plug.
My "fix" was to buy a new drain plug ( the screw rubber/brass type ) that you push in then screw the brass fitting to tighten it. I first shaved off some of the rubber so it would go in better hope this helps

[bendopolo 44+]

Put the plug in from the other side.

[Fisheromen]

Put the plug in from the other side.

Good idea except for access! Wires, hoses and batteries make it almost impossible in most bass boats.